Santa Monica restaurant offers traditional favorites with a side of ingenuity.

But be forewarned: Mélisse is not cheap.

At this Southern California hotspot—perfect for people with money to spend or groups celebrating special occasions—you really do get what you pay for.

It’s all in the atmosphere

Lemon Gratin

Upon entering the restaurant, the gentle ambience is enough to drown out the bustle of the outside. A modern chandelier hanging in the center of the room from a circular recessed portion of the ceiling draws your attention immediately, while tables shrouded in fresh white linen and topped with porcelain Limoges tableware, Ercuis silverware and fresh flowers spiral outward below it. Intimate booth seating lines the outer edges of the room, and rich wood-paneled walls showcase local artists’ paintings that are accented by recessed lighting. There’s a comfortable feel to this open and airy space, and a room separated from the central dining area by sliding glass doors offers additional seating under a retractable roof. The Olivia room, as it is called, can be rented out for private dining for groups of up to 46 people, while the Burgundy room, a smaller private room near the fully stocked bar and main entrance, can seat up to 16 people.

Having it all

Mélisse’s menu isn’t overwhelming since it offers a reasonable number of items to choose from. While guests can order appetizers and entrees at their own discretion, the secret to getting the most for your money is to order off the Tasting Menu. At $95 a pop, Citrin’s Tasting Menu allows guests to try an appetizer, a fish dish, a meat dish and a dessert.

Depending on when you go however, dishes vary slightly, based on what’s in season. Right now, it’s black truffles and Wagyu beef.

Ingredients used are fresh, there’s no doubt about it. Citrin makes weekly trips to the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market and orders items directly from farms around the country.

If you’re at a loss for where to start, try the Lobster Bolognese, which is garnished by a light foam of truffle juice reduction ($27). It’s to die for as an appetizer. With generous portions of juicy lobster topping a bed of fresh cappellini (thin, flat pasta) tossed with a tomato sauce of veal stock, lobster stock and diced leeks, carrots, onions, celery, basil and truffles, this dish is an exciting spin-off of a traditional Italian favorite. While it takes Bolognese to a new level, it’s still familiar enough to be comfortable, which is why it’s one of Mélisse’s most popular dishes.

When deciding on fish, the Crispy Eastern Black Bass “En Ecailles” ($41) is an exceptional choice. En Ecailles means that the fish is cooked with the scales on so that a light and crispy texture livens up each bite. The bass rests atop a mixture of razor clams and white bean puree that are a wonderful compliment in subtle flavor and texture. Two sauces, a yellow saffron rouille (a rich, mayonnaise sauce) and a bouillabaisse (fish stock), are the finishing touches to this dish. The rouille, a traditional accompaniment to bouillabaisse, adds a tart flavor, while the bouillabaisse, which is added at the very last moment—when the dish reaches the table—gently enhances the flavor of the fish.

A trio of prime beef ($43) is a way to try three tender cuts of meat without overwhelming yourself. Served with a potato galette (potato cooked with a thin crust), an oven-dried tomato and sautéed mustard greens that clean your palate as you move between the beefs, this dish allows you to try a braised short rib with meat so tender it literally melts in your mouth, a New York prime strip and a filet of beef. A red wine béarnaise sauce and a puree of onions, celery root and mustard serve as different flavoring options to the meats.

Hopefully by the time you’re finished trying the savory options, you’ve left room for dessert because it is here that Citrin’s artistry shines. In true French fashion, his desserts are as aesthetically pleasing as they are delightful.

The Lemon Gratin ($14) is a perfect end to a meal. Refreshing and tart, this dessert is so satisfying. Sugar crisps and mandarin crisps are wonderful treats to nibble on as you make your way through a foamy vanilla-caramel shake and a crepe stuffed with Clementine mandarin marmalade that pairs wonderfully with the scoop of blood orange sorbet resting nearby. Marmalade reduction splashed across the plate is as decorative as it is tasty, but the real star of this dessert combo is the cool lemon gratin—a layer of lemon chiboust (custard) topped with a dense layer of sheep’s milk cream.

After tasting Citrin’s creations, it’s easy to see why Mélisse, which was named after the Mediterranean herb, “lemon balm,” has earned numerous awards and honors, including the prestigious Mobil Travel Guide Four-Star Rating six consecutive years in a row.

One patron said it best when he told Citrin, “It feels like you are just cooking for me, and only me.” And really, this is the feeling Citrin says he hopes all his restaurant’s patrons come away with.

Mélisse, 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. Open Tuesday through Thursday, 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 5:45 p.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations: (310) 395-0881.